Things I Have Found to be True about my Beloved Perú

Clearly this Type-A chica is a fan of lists, for here is another about my new life.  There are a lot of little things that differ from life at home, whether or not I was forewarned about them.

1. ¡Papas! - Not dads...potatoes!  And many of them.  About 3,000 types, in fact.  Peruvians are proud of their potatoes.  (And I thought potatoes was mostly an Irish thing...)

¡Papas! ¡Get your papas!

2. Strong religious influence - Even if many are no longer as many practicing Catholics here as there used to be, you can still see the influence of the religion everywhere here, from the giant white Jesus statue, to the decals on almost every taxi, to the rosaries around cholos' necks.  Usually here there is a unique mix of Catholicism and the ancient beliefs of the Incas...Jesus, Mary, Pachamama (Mother Earth), Inti (Sun), etc.

3. Stray dogs - They are everywhere!  Don't be confused by the cute Golden or other dogs that look like housepets.  They are actually feral strays, although most likely completely harmless.

Strays just hanging out across the street from my home

4. Quechua - As forewarned, Quechua (the language of the indigenous population) is the second most common language here.  Luckily everyone in the city knows Spanish, so I have yet to encounter a language barrier too big to overcome.

5. Cat Calling - Definitely a thing here.  Like I said earlier, this was mostly in Lima, but I have gotten my fair share of 'Hola's on the streets of Cusco too.

6. Weaving - It happens, and with bright colors, just like you see in the pictures of Perú.  Mostly women weave in the Valle and rural areas, but the finished products are sold all over the city.

Weaving in the Sacred Valley

7. Soroche - I was very lucky, for soroche, or altitude sickness, did not affect me too badly.  I was tired and had a slight headache my first few days, and breathing is definitely more of a challenge here in Cusco, but with the help of some Diamox, soroche has been kind to me.

8.  American Music - I can't escape it.  My hermanita loves Adele (okay, not American, but Top 40) and Bruno Mars, and my brother's favorite band to play on his guitar is Red Hot Chili Peppers.  Many radio stations, restaurants and discotecas play Top 40 music, and they seem to be especially obsessed with 'Sexy and I Know It', 'Love in a Hopeless Place', 'Empire State of Mind', 'Pumped Up Kicks', 'Mr. Saxobeat' and 'Give Me Everything'.  I think I have heard more Shady here than I do when I am living a mere hour away from 8 Mile.  But for those of you who know how much I love my Latino music, don't worry.  I am getting my fill:)

9. Almuerzo - Lunch is the only big meal and it happens around two or three in the afternoon.  The rest is basically snacking, but they take almuerzo quite seriously.  Everyone goes home from work to enjoy this meal together.

10. Food - So just what do I eat here? Breakfast = fresh bread, cheese, ham, juice (fresh-squeezed) fruit salad, and of course, coffee; Dinner = bread, cheese, hot chocolate; Almuerzo = soup first, then a plate with a little meat (chicken or beef), about two potatoes, and a big scoop or two of rice - always. Carbs are taking over my diet, even more than before, if you can believe that.

11. Family time - This is so much more important here than in the States, especially on Sundays.  Everyone here seems to devote more time to just being together - long meals, slow Sundays, evenings just hanging out together.  Chévere.

12. Besos - The typical greeting here is a kiss on the right cheek.  So everyone you meet, and everytime you say hello or goodbye, its kisses all around.  You learn real fast how to let go of personal space.

13. Inca Kola - The Coca-Cola beverage of choice here.  Clearly its more like Mountain Dew than Coke.

14. Fresh food - Fruit, pan, cheese, everything is fresh!
15. Doorbells - Not just a typical ring, doorbell chimes come in all different songs.  From 'London Bridges' to 'Mary Had a Little Lamb', the sound announcing each visitor is a surprise.

16. Cell phones - Many people have multiple, they all have loud ringtones, and people answer them no matter the situation.  I've even seen people on forum panels and in interviews answer their phones, and it seems that it is not considered rude here like it would be in the States.

17. Compliments - Especially common from old ladies and young men, compliments are abundant.  Self-esteem boost, anyone?

18. Festivals, parades, bands, etc - It seems impossible to go out in any town in this great country, day or night, without running into a band marching in the street, people dancing, traditional bailes, homemade foods, and more festivities.  It helps, I think, that June is their month of celebrations, courtesy of Incan traditions.

19. Indecisive weather - In Cusco, the weather changes more than any weather I have experienced (and I am a Michigander through and through!)  I can feel my skin burning in the sun, but I need a coat and chompa in the shade, both a result of being so high in the mountains that the air is thinner.  Overall it is sunny about 85% of the time (yay!), but when its not, it can be cloudy, cloudy and rainy, or cloudy and hailing.  Give it ten minutes, and it will be sunny again!

20. TP - Yup, toilet paper gets its own spot on this list. Why? Because you cannot flush it here. The pipes in all of Perú, even Lima, are too small to handle TP, so you learn real fast that you have to put it in the basura.

21. Cars with Stereos - We´re talking huge speakers on top of little cars that frequently pass through the streets, blasting the music of various radio stations.  Even if the moment is short-lived, these cars provide the dancing necessities.

22. Remedies - There seems to be somewhat of a stigma against taking pills for every ailment.  Most often the remedy can be found in some fruit, herb, or tea.  I have been told that the cure for cancer is in a special recipe of foods and herbs, and that being so high in the mountains like this is the only cure for asthma.  While I´m not sure I believe either, there is something to be said for eating more fresh foods and relying less on meds!

23.  Laundry - It lacks two things that I am used to: 1. fabric softener (who knew you can really tell a difference without it?!) 2. dryers (my laundry is currently hanging out on the patio, drying naturally in the strong sunrays, how it should be done).

Laundry out to dry in Aguas Calientes

24. Cars - Almost all of the cars here are tiny and old, old, old! While the mountain air may be fresh, the city air certainly is not.  (Also, they love their horns...LOVE their horns.)

25. Combis, buses, taxis, oh my! - This is the system of public transportation, which nearly everyone uses daily.  I'd guess that about 80% of the cars on the road are taxis, running at a steady rate of S/. 3 per ride ($1.25ish) no matter your destination...unless you're a gringo, then you have to bargain your way down from about S/. 8.  Buses and combis are cheaper, if you are willing to be shoved into them, fitting about 17 people into a 10 person vehicle.

26. Nicknames - Everyone here is mami, papi, chiquita, linda, -sita (ie Amysita), etc.  All of these are terms of endearment used so often that it would probably be possible to spend my whole three months here without learning any names, and never hearing my own.

27. Cusqueña - Una cerveza muy rica de Cusco


28. Dangerous sidewalks -  Deep uncovered holes, loose objects, wobbly boards creating bridges over construction ravines, we've got them all in this city.  This would-be lawsuit in the States means one thing: No walking and texting!

29. No big-box stores - Mega, the grocery store comparable to most in the States, is as big as it gets in this country.  The rest can be found at small, very specific stores, so there is no such thing as one-stop-shopping.

30. Political signs - Spraypainted on any surface that doesn't move, and cut into the land of the mountains here, you can see political propoganda everywhere, ranging from campaign ads leftover from the last presidential elections to anonymous individuals' opinions about various social issues.

Andy in the Valley with both graffitied opinions in the forefront
and campaign ads in the mountainside behind him

Okay, that is probably enough for now, if I haven't bored you all already.  I will continue the list as I come across more interesting tidbits about life in Perú.  ¡Nos vemos!

Just a Few Reasons Why the Latino Culture Seems to Better Fit My Personality:

1. Everyone here is consistently 15-45 minutes late, making my persistent tardiness by 10-15 minutes seem early.  (I am gonna be in trouble when I return to the States.)

2. The main expression of love here is through physical touch.  Anyone who knows me knows I love my hugs and other physical expressions of care.  Everyone here is always kissing, hugging, and hanging on their querid@s (loved ones).

3. Carbs! Carbs! Carbs!  This dough-face could really get used to the fresh bread and other carbs every day here.

4. Catholicism permeates all aspects of life here.  It's a good thing that rather than being creeped out by the two Jesus and a Virgin Mary overlooking me while I sleep, I have come to take comfort in them.

5. Focused on relationships and human connections, this culture could really teach me a thing or two about slowing down and appreciating the beauty in life.

Espinar: ¡Sí, Se Puede!

APORVIDHA has been such a great learning experience.  We get into the grit of Peru that I probably wouldn't learn about otherwise.  For example, our biggest project these days has been that of the mine in Espinar, a town outside of Cusco.

There is a foreign mine in Espinar called Xstrata Tintaya, and it brings in much revenue for the country, as do the many other mines of this mineral-rich country.  Unfortunately the mine is contaminating the waters of Espinar and the people recently began to protest and even strike.  The mine company has paid the town's police, however, so when the authorities responded to the protests, it resulted in the death of two protestors, many more injuries, and the detention of seven.



A Peruvian speaking out at the forum

Two weeks ago, APORVIDHA held a taller, or forum, about the rights of indigenous pueblos.  The following day there was a press conference in our very own office, and a priest, lawyers, and activists were interviewed by the dozens of journalists, ranging from PeruTV to MSNBC.  Thanks to the pressure this put on the figures of Espinar (along with pressure from other organizations in the Cusco region), the judge liberated the detainees.  However, they took the mayor of Espinar under arrest without good reason.  Currently APORVIDHA is working to free the alcalde, to end the contamination and corruption, and to bring justice to Espinar.

At the forum for the rights of the indigenous towns

Needless to say, it has been a busy few weeks at the office and I have learned so much (and still have much more to better understand).

Something I have also learned is that this country seems very divided on Espinar and similar issues.  What I am learning at work is that there needs to be justice in these situations.  We need to better listen to the voices of the pueblos, which are often forgotten about.  This country is so centered in Lima that only bigger areas like Cusco are paid any attention.  From the Amazon to the cielos to the ocean, there are little towns and pockets of Peruvians (especially indigenous Peruvians) who are forgotten.  Apparently if you go to some of these places, people do not even know who their own president is becuase the government does not bother to reach out to them, to provide sufficient education, to inform them, or to allow them a voice.  APORVIDHA sees this as an injustice and is fighting with these communities for their equality.

The Press Conference

Not everyone sees it that way, however.  In my own family even there is quite extreme disagreement, or at least different understandings of such issues.  For example, my abuelo called Cusqueñan students 'communists' when they protested in the streets of Cusco for the rights of the people of Espinar.  From his point of view (or at least what I can gather of his point of view), his country has suffered hell in the times of Fujimori and the Sendero Luminoso.  In this period of the 80s and 90s, there was economic turmoil, severe class inequalities, government corruption, and horrifying violence and terrorism.  After several years and presidents, the country has returned to a positive, stable state.  Terrorism no longer reigns, the government and the economy are mostly stable, and the country knows peace.  After having lived through such terror, however, I can understand how people, like my sweet abuelo, would only want a country without unrest.  The mines provide revenue and if the people could just remain quiet and deal with a little contamination, then the corruption would not be so evident, the stable state of the region would not be compromised, and the country could continue to make a profit.  I can understand this, and I realize there is a past history bigger than I will ever know, and for this reason I try to soak in all of the opinions about this and other related issues.

My heart, as always, however, is with the voiceless.  With APORVIDHA and our allies, I will continue to learn more about social justice in Peru, and I will continue to push for the human rights of the marginalized small town citizens, indigenous people, mujeres, and more.  These voices will be heard.  ¡Sí, se puede!

Machu Picchu: My Second New Wonder

The road we took to get to the top

This past weekend I went with the ISA/ELAP group to Machu Picchu, one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World.  We took a bus and train to get there, and stayed in a town called Aguas Calientes at the bottom of the mountain on which Machu Picchu sits.  A tourist bust took us to the top of the mountain, taking the scariest hairpin turns all the way up and passing other big busses on the single lane dirt road like it was no big deal.

For our official tour of the ancient city, a friend of Kenner’s happened to be our guide.  The two or three hour tour took us from outside the ancient city with that view of Machu Picchu you always see in pictures, into the city through various old plazas, thrones and places of worship.  The city was thought to be built for nobles and it was all constructed by hand, not even with the help of animals, for all they had were llamas and let’s face it, llamas can’t do much except pose for pictures (which they so kindly did for us as they wandered aimlessly in the terraces around the city.  Classic.)  Also, these terraces which surround the city all the way down the mountainside are made of dirt from Cusco and the Sacred Valley, meaning the Incas went to the trouble of moving all that dirt for miles by hand.  When the Spanish arrived, the Incans destroyed their trails leading to this city so that it would remain hidden.  Their trick worked, for scientists (an American from an Ivy League, I believe) didn’t find it until 100 years ago.  Cool, huh?  (Or rather, chevere, ¿no?)  Machu Picchu proves the brilliance of the Incans.

Traffic jam on the Inca Trail

After the guided walk, we went on a beautiful hike along part of the Incan trail toward La Puerta del Sol, an ancient foundation with amazing views of the mountains along the way.  After a full day in Machu Picchu, we relaxed our exhausted muscles in the hot springs of Aguas Calientes (hence the town’s name, “Hot Waters”).  At night we went out for yummy pizza and fun karaoke, with a mix of English and Spanish songs.  That night I fell asleep with my windows open (much warmer than Cusco, as it is about 4,000 feet lower) listening to a band playing, marching around the city at 1:00 am.  The next day I’d find out the reason behind the late-night music.

Walking along PeruRail Tracks

Andy and I at the falls

Sunday morning we hiked the PerúRail tracks into the jungley forest.  It was quiet and peaceful, the air was clean and fresh, and the exercise felt so good: I was in my happy place.  There was fascinating vegetation: avocado and coffee bean trees, bright flowers of reds and yellows, palm trees, and hydrangeas as big as my head.  At the end of the trail, our feet were treated to the coldest of water in the gorgeous waterfall.  We played on the rocks and took fun group pics, making Andy promise to put them on the ISA website.  On the way back we stopped at a less-than-exciting butterfly garden where we were only able to spot two butterflies with the help of a barefooted Chilean who came out of nowhere and vanished as fast as he’d appeared. 

Pineapple

Banana trees

Locals praying at the shrine

After lunch Shauna and I decided to wander the city away from the touristy parts.  Upon crossing the bridge to the more local side, we immediately came upon a big fútbol game with people watching from all sides.  We followed the persistent music to find a band playing and locals eating, drinking and dancing.  We enjoyed the music and the man passing out pisco sours offered us some, even though we were clearly tourists.  We continued until we saw a shrine two stories tall full of bright colors, pictures of Jesus, Incan designs, and burning candles.  Continuing on, we came upon a small street filled with, yet again, a band and people eating, dancing and drinking.  This time when we passed through a woman pulled on my arm and gave me a glass of chicha.  “¡Baile! ¡Baile!” she told me.  “Dance! Dance!”  So, after a little resistance, we stayed and danced.  And how thankful I am that we did, because that experience turned out to be my favorite from Perú thus far.

The warm and welcoming Manuel

For nearly an hour we stayed and chatted with these locals, the nicest and most welcoming people I have ever met.  They asked us about our country, our studies, our purpose here and how we liked Perú, and they told us about their community, Machu Picchu, and this feast day of a saint I’d never heard of, which explains the music all night and day.  We even had inside jokes with our new friends by the time we left.  (All this in Spanish – it was a confidence boost in my language abilities!)  The whole time they were giving us drinks that we had no chance of finishing, and I’m sure they would have fed us if we hadn’t had to leave before they cooked their bucket of chicken (literally a giant bucket full of whole, raw chickens, which one man made talk and dance for us) and huge leg of a cow (casually thrown over another man’s shoulder as he carried the heavy load into the house).  The whole time we couldn’t stop laughing and it all seemed too much like a dream.  We were experiencing local culture as best as we could simply because we’d wandered off the beaten path (don’t worry Mom, we were still very safe!) and happened upon the kindest community.  All the stereotypes and stories I have heard about Latin Americans being happy, warm, welcoming and generous were made very true and real to me this weekend in less than an hour with Manuel, Leo and the other perfect strangers turned fast friends.  I can’t do it justice with words or pictures.  It was a beautiful exchange of culture, laughter, love, and human connection.

So while some remember their visit to Machu Picchu for the ancient ruins, the llamas, or the mountain views, I will always remember it for the amazing love of the beautiful people of Aguas Calientes.  

Aguas Calientes

El Valle Sagrado

Mi nuevo amigo

Eatin' with the alpacas

An indigenous family in Pisac

Cuy comes with the head and all...
yup, I actually ate this

The week before last, we spent Friday on an excursion to the Sacred Valley.  All day we bused through the most beautiful scenery, stopping at various points to do the typical tourist things.  First we went to an alpaca and llama farm area.  There we did our fair share of both chasing the animals to get pictures with them, and running aware from them out of fear of flying spit.  It was both silly and fun.  We spent time at a market in Pisac a little further down the valley, and ate lunch in Urubamba.  It was here that I tried two new Peruvian delicacies – alpaca and cuy.  Alpaca wasn’t bad, but cuy tasted like what it is: rodent (guinea pig, to be exact).  Now I can say I’ve tried them both…and I’m done.  (Except I've heard there's an important plate in tomorrow's Corpus Christi festivities that includes lots of cuy...)

We stopped in a tiny town where a woman taught us the process of making chicha, the favorite Peruvian drink made from fermented corn. Next we climbed the ancient ruins of Ollantaytambo, full of both Incan and pre-Incan history.  Between Ollantaytambo and Chinchero, our final stop, we saw the most miraculous sunset from the seats of our bus.  It was as if fire hit snow along the wide, jagged horizon of the white-peaked Andes.  It was like no sunset I’ve ever seen before (even though I am partial to sunsets over water).  Finally in Chinchero, we learned about the process of making yarn from alpaca wool, dying the yarn and weaving beautiful products made of brilliant colors. 

On top of the ruins of Ollantaytambo

A little boy hanging out in the streets of Ollantaytambo

The women of Chinchero
teaching us about making yarn

Overall it was an awesome day of exposure to the rural Andean culture in Perú.  It was fascinating to experience the little towns full of women in their long skirts and braids, carrying animals on their back in their bright sacks and little kids running around, playing with each other in the streets and markets, not batting an eye at the tourists taking over their little pueblos.  I enjoyed one more look at Peruvian life that is much different than that in either Lima or Cusco.  

La vida bonita.

Its official: I'm an adopted Cusqena

Buenas noches!

I can’t decide what to write about next because there’s just so much.  I suppose I should start with the basics of my life as an adopted Cusquena.  My first days have been simply amazing.  

THE CITY:
This is such a cool city!  It is a million times better than Lima.  First, it is a whole lot smaller, which makes it more manageable, safer, and less intimidating.  I already feel comfortable walking to the main places on my own, such as La Plaza de Armas, my work, the ELAP/ISA office, etc.  Every street has little bodegas to buy your toiletries and other goods, panaderias to buy your fresh bread daily, and street vendors selling everything from the paper to Inca Cola, bananas to fried food.  The cars are all pretty worn down and small, and the most common way to get around (other than walking) is by taxi, bus, or combi (ie big vans that fit about 10 people comfortably, so about 17 people in reality - Peruvians don’t really care much for personal space).  There is usually a person hanging out of the side door of the bus or combi yelling the destination of the vehicle, collecting everyone’s soles (Peruvian currency) when they get on, and shouting “BAJA BAJA” when they get off.  It’s a much different public transportation experience than any I’ve had in the US or Europe.  The side streets of the city are usually fairly calm, although it seems that in every plaza there is some kind of festival or event, as this is the season of celebrations here in Peru.

Oh and did I mention that the city is surrounded by the gorgeous Andes?  It is UNREAL.  Everywhere I look I can see the mountains, most full of the colorful houses that lie on the outskirts of the city, but some of them left untouched.  Some are even covered in a beautiful white snow.  And at night, the mountains glow with the dull yellow lights of the houses.  The only downside of these beautiful mountains is that they hide the sun earlier so it’s dark by about 5:30pm, which probably explains why everyone is in bed by 9.

Viva El Peru

Plaza de Armas - the main square

One of the buildings I look out at, welcoming me to my new home

  
HOME:
I am absolutely IN LOVE with my family here (they’re gonna get their own post soon because they are so wonderful).  Earlier when I began writing this post, I was hanging out with mi hermanita, Lucia.  She was working on her geography homework and we were jamming to some music together (a healthy mix of my favorites like Reik and Juanes, and her favorites like Adele and Bruno Mars - seems backwards, no?) Now I am with her and her brother and his amigo, who are both playing Red Hot Chili Peppers on their guitars.

We live in a cute apartment that is overflowing with pictures of family members, little house plants, religious figurines and pictures, and other trinkets and decorations.  It is pretty cozy and already starting to feel like home.  I have my own room, which used to belong to one of my grandparents’ daughters before she moved to Lima.  It’s lime green, full of stuffed animals, and has a big window, allowing me to get lots of sun by day and, by night, a cool view of the lights on the mountains, including “Jesus Blanco” or “White Jesus”, a giant statue of Jesus that overlooks the city and lights up beautifully when it gets dark.  



Anyway, now that I know the trick to getting hot water in the shower, I have no complaints about my house, and absolutely none about my family.  They have definitely welcomed me with open arms and made true the statement “mi casa es tu casa”.

My view

Not the best quality pic, but the view from my room at night - Jesus Blanco all lit up!

A poster at work:)

Shauna in our new workplace!

One of the many beautiful Catholic churches of the city - this is where I went to mass with mis abuelos this weekend!

My beautiful new city

WORK:
My friend Shauna and I had our first day at APORVIDHA together last Thursday.  I wasn’t expecting to be working with another American, so it has been a nice surprise to have a friend there.  Together we can understand most of what goes on.  The people at the agency all seem extremely passionate about their work and the mission of the organization, and that is so promising, especially since their mission seems to match many of my social justice passions.  They are also very sweet and welcoming, even if they talk muy rapido.  Thursday was kind of like an orientation day for us, where they told us all about the organization and gave us a folder of materials to read.  We were able to help them edit some information too, and then we sat in on a meeting about an upcoming taller, which is like an all-day exposition/conference about a specific issue.  All day long, everyone was joking around with everyone else, they were all working hard, and the morale seemed really positive.  

Today, Shauna and I had our second day of work, in which we spent most of the day reading materials about various human rights cases that they are dealing with.  One was about the Sendero Luminoso, or the Shining Path, which was a political party/guerrilla group active mostly in the ‘80s and ‘90s.  There was a lot of internal conflict in Peru and both the Shining Path and the government killed a lot of innocent people in that era.  Currently there is still much to be resolved from this dangerous and scary time.  So this specific report we read was about a group of men in a small village who were killed years ago and the families are still fighting for justice.

There was another file all about a long-standing fight between the government and the people in a town in the Sacred Valley.  The government wants to build an international airport in this little town but the people are upset because it will take away land from the farmers there.  In addition, it’ll change the atmosphere of the town, as it is tiny, calm and peaceful (I was there Friday - it truly is beautiful and quaint) and adding an airport with create more noise, traffic and pollution.  Also, the people are frustrated simply because they don’t have a voice in any of the decisions about this airport.  The other side of the argument is that building the airport there will increase tourism (and thus boost the economy) in the area.  Tomorrow, we are having a taller about this whole issue, and I’m very excited to see APORVIDHA at work in the community!  I still have a LOT to learn about the agency and the work, and we don’t really know what we’ll be doing, but for now Shauna and I are happy to be learning and experiencing it all!  (Much better than being stuck in a classroom here all day, that’s for sure.)

FUN:
So last week I spent much of my down time with my family, usually eating, and we have begun to get to know each other.  I also had a few meetings with the others of ELAP/ISA, most just to check in and get our schedules, etc.  During one of the meetings we all bought cell phones together.  So my fears of going a whole summer without texting have been put to rest.  I am back to texting my friends, just not those on the northern side of the Equator...

We had a planned excursion to the Sacred Valley on Friday, which was AWESOME because it gave us a look at the rural side of the Andes in Peru (even though it was quite a touristy excursion).  Hopefully more details on the trip soon - and definitely pictures (llamas, mountains, weaving, oh my!).

On Saturday I went to a neighborhood barbeque with my family, which was a really fun taste of local life.  Then I had a meeting at ELAP, followed by salsa lessons!  All of us learned together...meaning there were 5 males (3 students, Andy and Kenner) to 20 something females...meaning the employees of ISA invited their Peruvian male friends to come dance with us.  It was a BLAST!  Turns out, when I have a strong lead, I can dance.  Who knew?  (I’m a lost cause without a good lead though. jaja)  After salsa, we all mingled with each other, had pizza, and made plans for the rest of the night...aka meeting up later in La Plaza de Armas to go to the discotecas and continue our dancing:)  What a fun first Saturday night in Cusco!

Apparently here they take their Sundays more seriously than we do in the States, meaning all I did was go to Church (twice - one Catholic, the other Pentecostal as there is a bit of both in my family) and spend time with my family.  It was perfect.  My mom, grandma, sister and brother and I all went to the store together, then had ice cream followed by lunch and a visit with some extended family members.  We took a little rest before making mini pizzas together (just the jovenes - us kids plus mom, which was fun because we were all being silly in the kitchen).  When I asked my brother, Alejandro, what he usually does on the weekends, he said that Saturdays are for sleeping, hanging out, friends etc and Sundays are for family.  How many teenage boys in the States devote their entire Sundays to family time?  Not many.  I like it here:)

Alright, this is probably long enough for now.  More soon!  I’m hoping to get all updated before my trip to Machu Picchu this weekend.

Chao!

And so begins the Honeymoon Phase...

In Detroit ready to begin my adventures

!Hola de Peru!

I’m sorry for my silence, but it has been possibly the craziest few days of my life.  In one week I have moved to a new country, met my new family and started a new job.  I’ve also already seen a lot of the country, from the ocean to the mountains, the crazy city of Lima to the peaceful Sacred Valley.  Oh, and last night, I learned how to salsa!  So much to tell you...

Okay first, a week ago today I boarded that plane (my first flight solo!), had a smooth trip, and in Lima’s Jorge Chavez airport it was just like the movies where people hold up signs with names on it, but this time one of the signs was for me!  So surreal. 

"A great country.  Much to discover."

That night I met the others in the program (20-something college students from all over the US, most taking classes in Cusco, 5 of us volunteering at various agencies) as well as the coordinators, Andy and Kenner, who are AWESOME!  Luckily they speak English very well so we were all able to ease into the Spanish poco a poco in our time in Lima.

The next day we started our adventures together...

FROM CATCALLS TO CATACOMBS: LIMA
Our hotel was in a nice neighborhood called Miraflores, which was pretty, but overall Lima is NOT the city for me.  It’s not beautiful, it’s not very safe, and it’s huge.  Oh, and in the current season there a giant cloud just sits over the city and supposedly for months the sun never shines (see why it’s not a city for me?).  It doesn’t have the best reputation and now I can see why.  Much of the country is centralized in this city though - the government, the jobs, the power, etc.  Definitely an interesting dynamic.  

(Side note: In Lima, the catcalls that they warned us about are a very real thing.  Whistles, honks, comments, stares - we got them all.  Luckily Cusco hasn’t been anything like that yet.)

One of the main plazas of the city

The view from my hotel room

La Catedral

Monday morning we had orientation at a university in the city (ie a morning of a “lecture” full of tips about the country and what to expect).  In Chinatown we enjoyed some chifa, or Chinese food, which is really popular here - and yummy!  After lunch, we went to La Catedral de San Francisco.  The old, yellow, beautiful cathedral also happens to come with catacombs underneath.  So basically way back when, when the people of Lima died, they were laid on top of each other under the building and left there so that now there are piles and piles of bones...I could have reached out and touched countless skulls if I’d had the urge to.  Interesting and a little creepy.  A place to be respected though, that’s for sure.  The church also had the most amazing courtyard with beautiful architecture and flowers.

Dancing with El Diablo (the Devil) at dinner

For dinner we went to a fancy Peruvian buffet and had a delicious meal followed by traditional Peruvian music and dances from various parts of the country.  It was a blast and a great introduction to the culture.

The Park of Love

On Tuesday we went to an Incan Market where they sold all types of colorful woven products and other traditional hand-made goods.  Some of us went exploring with Kenner to the Park of Love and the beach.  I have officially been in the Pacific in the Southern Hemisphere (well my feet have at least...).  

We went to the neighborhood called Barrancos, which is artsy and bohemian, and there we walked the beach and had dinner, which consisted of Chica Morada, (my favorite drink here - it’s a sweet drink made from purple corn), anticucho (cow heart), and picarones (a sweet similar to a donut).  When in Peru, do as the Peruvians, verdad?  Then, at night some of us went out for more comida and to dance!

Anticucho

Picarones

Way too early the next morning we all left for the airport to finally start our summer lives!  I’ll leave that for the next post though...don’t wanna wear y’all out already with long posts.  I have so much to tell you about my new life in Cusco!  Basically, I'm in the "honeymoon phase" of the culture shock chart, meaning I'm loving most everything about my new country. More coming soon, I promise:) But now, it's family time (it is Sunday after all). Chao!