Thursday, June 14, 2012

Things I Have Found to be True about my Beloved Perú

Clearly this Type-A chica is a fan of lists, for here is another about my new life.  There are a lot of little things that differ from life at home, whether or not I was forewarned about them.

1. ¡Papas! - Not dads...potatoes!  And many of them.  About 3,000 types, in fact.  Peruvians are proud of their potatoes.  (And I thought potatoes was mostly an Irish thing...)
¡Papas! ¡Get your papas!
2. Strong religious influence - Even if many are no longer as many practicing Catholics here as there used to be, you can still see the influence of the religion everywhere here, from the giant white Jesus statue, to the decals on almost every taxi, to the rosaries around cholos' necks.  Usually here there is a unique mix of Catholicism and the ancient beliefs of the Incas...Jesus, Mary, Pachamama (Mother Earth), Inti (Sun), etc.

3. Stray dogs - They are everywhere!  Don't be confused by the cute Golden or other dogs that look like housepets.  They are actually feral strays, although most likely completely harmless.
Strays just hanging out across the street from my home
4. Quechua - As forewarned, Quechua (the language of the indigenous population) is the second most common language here.  Luckily everyone in the city knows Spanish, so I have yet to encounter a language barrier too big to overcome.

5. Cat Calling - Definitely a thing here.  Like I said earlier, this was mostly in Lima, but I have gotten my fair share of 'Hola's on the streets of Cusco too.

6. Weaving - It happens, and with bright colors, just like you see in the pictures of Perú.  Mostly women weave in the Valle and rural areas, but the finished products are sold all over the city.
Weaving in the Sacred Valley
7. Soroche - I was very lucky, for soroche, or altitude sickness, did not affect me too badly.  I was tired and had a slight headache my first few days, and breathing is definitely more of a challenge here in Cusco, but with the help of some Diamox, soroche has been kind to me.

8.  American Music - I can't escape it.  My hermanita loves Adele (okay, not American, but Top 40) and Bruno Mars, and my brother's favorite band to play on his guitar is Red Hot Chili Peppers.  Many radio stations, restaurants and discotecas play Top 40 music, and they seem to be especially obsessed with 'Sexy and I Know It', 'Love in a Hopeless Place', 'Empire State of Mind', 'Pumped Up Kicks', 'Mr. Saxobeat' and 'Give Me Everything'.  I think I have heard more Shady here than I do when I am living a mere hour away from 8 Mile.  But for those of you who know how much I love my Latino music, don't worry.  I am getting my fill:)

9. Almuerzo - Lunch is the only big meal and it happens around two or three in the afternoon.  The rest is basically snacking, but they take almuerzo quite seriously.  Everyone goes home from work to enjoy this meal together.

10. Food - So just what do I eat here? Breakfast = fresh bread, cheese, ham, juice (fresh-squeezed) fruit salad, and of course, coffee; Dinner = bread, cheese, hot chocolate; Almuerzo = soup first, then a plate with a little meat (chicken or beef), about two potatoes, and a big scoop or two of rice - always. Carbs are taking over my diet, even more than before, if you can believe that.

11. Family time - This is so much more important here than in the States, especially on Sundays.  Everyone here seems to devote more time to just being together - long meals, slow Sundays, evenings just hanging out together.  Chévere.

12. Besos - The typical greeting here is a kiss on the right cheek.  So everyone you meet, and everytime you say hello or goodbye, its kisses all around.  You learn real fast how to let go of personal space.

13. Inca Kola - The Coca-Cola beverage of choice here.  Clearly its more like Mountain Dew than Coke.

14. Fresh food - Fruit, pan, cheese, everything is fresh!
15. Doorbells - Not just a typical ring, doorbell chimes come in all different songs.  From 'London Bridges' to 'Mary Had a Little Lamb', the sound announcing each visitor is a surprise.

16. Cell phones - Many people have multiple, they all have loud ringtones, and people answer them no matter the situation.  I've even seen people on forum panels and in interviews answer their phones, and it seems that it is not considered rude here like it would be in the States.

17. Compliments - Especially common from old ladies and young men, compliments are abundant.  Self-esteem boost, anyone?

18. Festivals, parades, bands, etc - It seems impossible to go out in any town in this great country, day or night, without running into a band marching in the street, people dancing, traditional bailes, homemade foods, and more festivities.  It helps, I think, that June is their month of celebrations, courtesy of Incan traditions.

19. Indecisive weather - In Cusco, the weather changes more than any weather I have experienced (and I am a Michigander through and through!)  I can feel my skin burning in the sun, but I need a coat and chompa in the shade, both a result of being so high in the mountains that the air is thinner.  Overall it is sunny about 85% of the time (yay!), but when its not, it can be cloudy, cloudy and rainy, or cloudy and hailing.  Give it ten minutes, and it will be sunny again!

20. TP - Yup, toilet paper gets its own spot on this list. Why? Because you cannot flush it here. The pipes in all of Perú, even Lima, are too small to handle TP, so you learn real fast that you have to put it in the basura.

21. Cars with Stereos - We´re talking huge speakers on top of little cars that frequently pass through the streets, blasting the music of various radio stations.  Even if the moment is short-lived, these cars provide the dancing necessities.

22. Remedies - There seems to be somewhat of a stigma against taking pills for every ailment.  Most often the remedy can be found in some fruit, herb, or tea.  I have been told that the cure for cancer is in a special recipe of foods and herbs, and that being so high in the mountains like this is the only cure for asthma.  While I´m not sure I believe either, there is something to be said for eating more fresh foods and relying less on meds!

23.  Laundry - It lacks two things that I am used to: 1. fabric softener (who knew you can really tell a difference without it?!) 2. dryers (my laundry is currently hanging out on the patio, drying naturally in the strong sunrays, how it should be done).
Laundry out to dry in Aguas Calientes
24. Cars - Almost all of the cars here are tiny and old, old, old! While the mountain air may be fresh, the city air certainly is not.  (Also, they love their horns...LOVE their horns.)

25. Combis, buses, taxis, oh my! - This is the system of public transportation, which nearly everyone uses daily.  I'd guess that about 80% of the cars on the road are taxis, running at a steady rate of S/. 3 per ride ($1.25ish) no matter your destination...unless you're a gringo, then you have to bargain your way down from about S/. 8.  Buses and combis are cheaper, if you are willing to be shoved into them, fitting about 17 people into a 10 person vehicle.

26. Nicknames - Everyone here is mami, papi, chiquita, linda, -sita (ie Amysita), etc.  All of these are terms of endearment used so often that it would probably be possible to spend my whole three months here without learning any names, and never hearing my own.

27. Cusqueña - Una cerveza muy rica de Cusco


28. Dangerous sidewalks -  Deep uncovered holes, loose objects, wobbly boards creating bridges over construction ravines, we've got them all in this city.  This would-be lawsuit in the States means one thing: No walking and texting!

29. No big-box stores - Mega, the grocery store comparable to most in the States, is as big as it gets in this country.  The rest can be found at small, very specific stores, so there is no such thing as one-stop-shopping.

30. Political signs - Spraypainted on any surface that doesn't move, and cut into the land of the mountains here, you can see political propoganda everywhere, ranging from campaign ads leftover from the last presidential elections to anonymous individuals' opinions about various social issues.
Andy in the Valley with both graffitied opinions in the forefront
and campaign ads in the mountainside behind him

Okay, that is probably enough for now, if I haven't bored you all already.  I will continue the list as I come across more interesting tidbits about life in Perú.  ¡Nos vemos!

3 comments:

  1. (So much for coming home skinnier, carb-face!) When you return to the States, you'll probably want to grab a classic Coke, get in the big ol' Tahoe and crank up some Keith and Aldean, head to Target, Best Buy, and Meijers, then enjoy a late meal (that doesn't involve potatoes). Hope we can fit in one of those Peruvian Sundays during your brief time at home before you move back to Ann Arbor - sounds nice! Thanks for sharing bits of your daily life with us - so happy you're loving it there, bugsita!

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  2. Amysita, I love it. I smiled when you said that there's a stigma against taking pills, and thought of how you were the healer on our camping trip! I think I'm a Peruvian on that one, I don't much like taking meds for things, I'd rather fight it naturally :)

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  3. Great post, Amy! This reads like something out of a travel guide!

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